casino online americanoVarious European explorers witnessed surfing in Polynesia. Because of the velocity of the rushing water, the wave and the surfer can remain stationary while the water rushes by under the surfboard. [41] Off-shore winds produce non-surfable conditions by flattening a weak swell. Wave breaking intensity measures the force of the wave as it breaks, spills, or plunges (a plunging wave is termed by surfers as a "barrel wave"). The water in the jet is sediment rich, bubble rich, and moves rapidly.
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